In Nepal, of course, you can do fantastic hiking. And so do most of the people who come here. Everest Basecamp, Annapurna Basecamp, Annanpurna Circuit and many more routes can be found here. To get right to the point: I am not a hiker by nature. I like and love it but I hate hiking boots. And specifically that I always, I say ALWAYS get blisters. Don’t know what it is with me. Feet get week and so on.
Haha ok, enough of this foot-dragging. In short, I am not the typical athletically built woman who jumps effortlessly from one rock to another. But I do want to see and experience nature. Well then you have to put up with this kind of inconvenience. So…here we go!
Annapurna Basecamp sherpa
When traveling in Nepal, a good hiccup cannot be missed. I did the Annapurna Basecamp trek also known as the ABC track. Many people choose to do so with porters, or sherpas. We did it without a sherpa but did with a guide. Bikhas. Who always left his underpants flapping attached to his bag to dry. You can also do the tracks without a guide, but we liked it because it also allows you to learn more about the area.
Starting from Pokhara
The trek to Annapurna Basecamp departs from Pokhara and takes about 10 to 11 days. You can do it even if you are super trained and like to run 8 to 9 hours a day, within 7 to 8 days. We chose a more leisurely pace so we could also enjoy and take in the view slowly. Also in terms of getting used to the altitude, that’s nice.
Before you head towards Pokhara at all, it is useful to arrange a permit in Kathmandu. Otherwise, you may not go out in the area. It can also be done in Pokhara these days I understood, but just to be safe just in Kathmandu. Then you have it in advance right?
By the way, don’t expect luxury. You often sleep in a cubicle (sometimes with miniature natural light) with two separate beds. Nothing more nothing less. In the evening you can sit down in the “dining room” in which they have a pit and over it a large table. In the middle of the pit is a burner that they light so you can get nice and warm. There are also curtains stretched under the table top from one table leg to the other. By the way, you can also conveniently dry clean-washed underwear and socks on these lines. Bring a deck of cards. Always fun!
Annapurna Basecamp route:
Day 1: drive from Pohkara to Nayapul and then hike to Tikhedhunga
The altitude of the Annapurna basecamp (ABC) is 4130 meters. So you have some meters to go at the start. Fortunately, this is a nice relaxing day. Just stretching the legs say. A nice place to celebrate your first night. Blisters were already developing. Auuww….
Day 2: Tikhedhunga to Ghorepani via Ulliri (lots of uphill)
This is a route with lots of stairs and uphill. At the end you have to push on for a while, but then you are in Ghorepani. Here you will have beautiful views as well as go to Poon Hill the next day. You don’t want to miss that! The first blisters hurt pretty bad. In the evening, I first plastered my heels with blister plasters and then taped them all over with sports tape. That helped. Didn’t take the tape off again the rest of the trek. So go hiking: bring sports tape!
Day 3: Ghorepani (2750 m) to Poon Hill (3210 m).
You get up at 3 a.m. to see the spectacular sunrise. For me, that was really draining. It was still cold. Slick and there was still snow/ice everywhere. In the dark. I did this on character. Also because I am terrified of black ice and anything slippery. That combination with cold, early, dark so can’t see where you’re walking properly and ice/snow made it the hardest part of the trip for me. But how beautiful it was when I got to the top! Was so glad I made it. The view is top notch and especially since it was pushing boundaries for me, extra special. I really stood and enjoyed it. You even while sipping a cup of tea enjoy the sunrise. Wow!
Then we walked to Tadapani (2650 m): this day was tough. Especially since I had already done Poon Hill in the morning. After this day, I didn’t see the point for a while. But fortunately, the day after is very nice!
Day 4: Tadapani (2650 m) – Chomrong (2170 m).
This is a beautiful ride through green fields and we had a nice sunshine. Moreover, in Chomrong we had the only hot shower during the entire trek. What a delight! How intensely happy you can be with hot water then. Although we didn’t know that at the time. Haha.
Day: 5 Chomrong (2170 m) – Bamboo (2600 m) 6-7 hrs.
I remember this day as reborn because of the hot shower and enough energy to get back at it. You first descend a bit, cross a bridge and then you have to go back up. A beautiful trip with several times beautiful views of the mountain peaks! In terms of weather, we were a little less lucky; we faced thunderstorms and lots of rain. That was nice soaking in the hiking boots.
“We are going to an avalanche area, we need to walk very quick”.
Day 6: Bamboo (2600 m) – Duerali
When we arrived at Bamboo, we quickly took off our wet clothes and enjoyed sitting in the common room. Let socks and clothes dry on the curtain rail. Everywhere you get excellent vegetarian food. And you can buy water along the way. By the way, it is not recommended to drink alcohol during your trekking. Because of the altitude, you dry out quickly and it’s better to just wait with your beer when you get back down. The trek from Bamboo to Duerali is beautiful through forests and past rocky outcroppings. Wonderful.
Day 7: Deurali – ABC Annapurna Base Camp (4130 m) 7-8 hrs.
Yaa Basecamp accomplished!
“We are going to an avalanche area, we need to walk very quick”.
This is what Bikhas said before we left Deurali. Somewhat tense, we walked through the beautiful valley toward Macchupurare basecamp. There we ate a very tasty tofu soup before covering the last meters in the snow to Annapurna Basecamp. Here you have to be careful at times, because before you know it you are knee-high in snow. Super cool!
And then you arrive…at Basecamp. So incredibly beautiful! You have glacier on the side and everywhere you see the beautiful mighty mountains towering far above you. Take the trouble to go out at night too, beautiful starry sky. Sunrise is also fantastic. Actually, everything is beautiful. You sleep in a small room with only 2 beds. Make sure you have a warm sleeping bag with you, with us it was -5 in the bedroom during the night.
Altitude sickness in Nepal
By the way, pay close attention to whether you have altitude sickness. You can recognize this by nausea and headaches. During dinner there was a Japanese girl sitting there and she was all green with nausea. So she immediately had to descend at least 500 meters to regain her composure. You cannot estimate in advance whether or not you will get altitude sickness. Be alert, drink plenty of water and if you have persistent nausea and headaches, immediately descend at least 500 meters.
After a chilly night (yes, who had to go to the bathroom again at -15 …moi of course!) we quickly put on our clothes, put on deo and went out very early to see the sunrise. You really must have seen that one. After the sunrise, we had breakfast and hopped back down.
Day 8: Annapurna Base Camp (4130 m) – Bamboo (2310 m) 7-8 hrs.
Walking down is a lot faster than walking up anyway 😉. During this day, you actually walk the same route but back. Walking downhill is tough on your knees make sure you get plenty of rest in between! And of course, keep drinking water.
Day 9: Bamboo (2310 m) – Jhinu Danda (1780 m) via Chomrong; visit hot springs 7 hours
Yesterday we walked a route we had already walked, today you go the other way. And what a one! At Jhinu Danda, you may pamper yourself at the hot springs. Can be a little crowded, but that shouldn’t spoil the fun. Just letting those tense muscles warm up in natural water.
Day 10: Jhinu Danda (1780 m) – Pothana (1870 m) via Landruk, to Phokara and massage! 7am
After the invigorating hot springs and good sleep, this stretch is fine and not strenuous. In fact, we walked on so much that we decided to walk the few hours set aside for the next day as well. Therefore, it took us 10 days instead of the planned 11 days.
What a beautiful hike. I can tell you with all my heart: go hiking in Nepal!
Packing list for Annapurna Basecamp
It is convenient not to take too many things with you when you go hiking. It is important to purchase comfortable clothing and footwear.
What I recommend is putting warm, lightweight clothing in your bag that dries quickly. As such, professional outdoor clothing is not necessary, the only thing I do recommend is a good windproof raincoat AND Gore-tex shoes. You can also buy everything in Tamel, but to be honest the quality is seamless and I recommend you just bring good quality stuff!
Keep in mind that you are going from high temperatures to very cold temperatures.
- Good walking shoes!
- Walking sticks, these are really nice. You can also just buy them in Tamel (Kathmandu) or find a stick in nature.
- A lightweight warm jacket (like Protest’s men’s winter coats and women’s winter coats ) that you can easily make small. A good (not padded) ski jacket too, for example (provided it breathes) and with a puli underneath you’re done.
- A warm sweater for ladies or for men one or two cardigans (and if you are cold you can borrow each other’s ;-))
- 2x Quick-dry shirt/shirt (so you can alternate)
- 5x underwear ( you can wash fine)
- 3 pairs of socks (yes, wash)
- Thermal underwear (to sleep in or wear if you are cold weather)
- Sleeping bag (suitable to at least -10, you can also hear these in Kathmandu)
- Sunglasses
- Hat
- Blister Plasters
- Sports tape
- E-reader for the evenings
- Card game
- Headlamp (very handy!)
- Refillable water bottle
- Water filters
| By the way, I may give everyone 10% off both regular collection and sale! Use vegantravel10 at checkout and you’ll get 10% off your new coat, sweater or cardigan! Code is valid until February 28, 2021 |
Cost Annapurna Basecamp track
We took a package that also supported an orphanage so we spent – including everything from transportation, guide to food – about $200 per person.
Above this came the permits TIMS and the ACAP we bought in Kathmandu. When you stay in Kathmandu they can tell you all about how to buy them there. For this you need to bring passport and passport photos!
– Part of this blog is in collaboration with Protest –
